About Hunting in the Winter

Hunting with a crossbow requires experience and technique just like any other hunting tools. Yet unlike other tools, it is best used when the hunter is near its prey. This is because the release of the bolts from this weapon could alarm its prey. This enables the target to move away even before the bolts hit it. Also, technically, the bolts will start to descend from its flight rapidly beyond 20 yards. This poses a major challenge since game species are easily spooked by footsteps, alarm from other animals, and especially abrupt and loud noises. This therefore requires the hunter to have extraordinary woodsmanship and can also stand a long hour practice. Success in hunting with this weapon is slim if the hunter is inexperienced in stealth and moving with the forest.

This weapon is also referred to as the lazy man’s weapon by many experienced hunters and weapon engineers. This is because it is very easy to use and convenient even for beginners. Although its predecessor is the primitive bows, this weapon requires less training and physical conditioning. This is exceptional, especially in winter, because of extreme cold which could hamper the optimal performance of a hunter’s body. Another aspect that is worth noticing for is the fact that it has a knockdown power as strong as conventional firearms. This ability gives game hunters a shooting convenience; they give less effort to catch a prey as compared to the effort of vertical bow hunters. As observed, these hunters have fought hard for their catch during winter season, while some hunters have devised various ways to make hunting easier for them.

Ideal Tennis Racket

To get the best match, you need to know what you should be looking for. This article will look at the main points to consider.

The grip is an oft forgotten element which can have a huge impact, with everything from ball striking to the likelihood of suffering injuries affected by the grip you select.

Comfort ought to be the biggest thing to look for, as you can make modifications later to get it perfect. A grip handle or over grip will help you make any modifications to turn it in to something you’re truly comfortable using.

The first step to find the best grip is to simply hold the racket as you normally would. When holding the racket there must be around a 1-1.5 cm gap between the grip and your hand. When you are able do this, you’ve found the right size.

When viewing head sizes you’ll encounter midsize, midplus, oversize and super oversize. The bigger head sizes will, obviously, have a bigger strike zone. The larger the strike zone, the simpler it is to hit big shots.

Most of the time the bigger head sizes tend to be more suited to those just learning the sport. Smaller, lighter head sizes allow more knowledgeable players a bit more freedom when hitting their shots. The fractions of a second a lighter racket helps you to save can make a big difference against better players.

The weight in the head, combined with the weight in the grip, will determine the balance of the racket. To test the weight of the racket, do this. Sit the racket on your open palm, sliding it along until it sits level. If the hand is close to the grip you’ve got a light head, or if your hand is close to the head you’ve got a heavier racket head.

If you want power, consider using a heavier racket. If you are seeking something simple to manoeuvre, go light. Heavier rackets are fantastic for those who keep to the baseline. Go light if you’d prefer to rush the net.

Your build should also play a part when deciding on a weight. The elbow and wrist can be strained when employing a heavier racket, while lighter rackets are generally easier on the joints. Consider a heavier racket if you believe you’ll find it difficult to generate sufficient power on your own.

There’s plenty out there, so take the time researching tennis rackets online prior to making your final purchase. This can also help you find a great deal on perfect racket.

About Cycling at Night

To prevent you from having to experience such a similar encounter (which could turn out worse) and for your safety, here are some basic tips for biking at night, whether you are just running some errands, leaving work or going home from classes:

Lights, lights, lights – Ensure your bike is equipped with a pair of lights. Keeping your cycle well lit will help other road users on the road to see you during the night and this will help to prevent accidents or collisions. In addition, your lights will help you to see obstacles along your path on the road ways (for example, potholes).

Reflectors – The bare minimum I recommend is having reflectors between your bicycle spokes on the wheel with front and rear reflectors (one on the handle bar and one below the seat pole). Like your lights, reflectors help other road users to see you coming. When a motor vehicle´s light hits your reflector, it reflects or lights up in a way that they cannot miss you, thus further ensuring your safety at night.

Clothing – Whilst riding at night, it is a good idea to not be wearing black clothes or dark colored clothing. Wear something bright, preferably white at all times as this will also help other road users to see you in the dark. This is a general rule that not only applies to cyclists but also is advised to pedestrians on the roadways at night.

Be alert and vigilant – The most important thing you can do, in my opinion, is to be vigilant and on the lookout whilst riding at night. Be on the lookout for pedestrians who may wander on the roadways and also for motor vehicles. I would further advise that you choose safe routes for biking after dark because you may be taking all the necessary precautions but there will always be reckless drivers on the road. Also, do not ride in places that are known to be dangerous at night or places that are too lonely. If possible, find a friend to go biking with at night.

Boxing Punches

Basic Boxing Punches

Boxing punches are typically assigned numbers so that when training you can refer to and call out punches quickly and without confusion. Depending on your trainer, different numbers might correspond to different punches. The following is a basic and standard numbering system which many other systems use as a base.

  1. Left Jab
  2. Straight Right/Right Cross
  3. Left Hook
  4. Right Hook
  5. Left Uppercut
  6. Right Uppercut

You will notice a few things about these numbers..

First of all, all of the odd-numbered punches are thrown with your left hand, and all of the even-numbered punches are thrown with your right hand.

Second, these punches are in pairs (1&2, 3&4, 5&6) that are the same, or similar punches but thrown with the opposite hand. These pairs often serve as building blocks for effective punching combinations.

Fighting “Southpaw”

If you are a southpaw (left-handed) fighter these punches are all thrown with the opposite hands. For example, the number 1 is a right jab, the 2 is a left cross/straight, the 3 is a right hook, etc. Your stance will also be opposite (in respect to left-right direction) that of a orthodox (right-handed) fighter.

How to Throw Punches

Left Jab

The jab is the most important punch in boxing because it is used both offensively and defensively and is used to set up other punches. The jab should be thrown almost continually throughout a fight. It serves to keep the other boxer on edge, get a feel for the distance between you, and to expose vulnerabilities that your opponent might open when he reacts to your jab. Additionally, jabs are often thrown to counter an opponent’s punch, and to protect yourself while pivoting or retreating.

To throw the jab, shoot your left hand in a straight line outwards from your chin. You do not want to use your elbow to generate power, but rather your shoulder. Think of your arm as a coiled spring.

On contact, the back of your hand should be parallel to the ground and you want to make contact with the knuckles of the pointer and middle finger primarily. Your fist should be relaxed, and tighten just before impact.

Because you are vulnerable with an arm extended, your must quickly “recoil the spring,” pulling your hand back into a guard.

Right Cross/Straight

The cross, or straight, is the notorious knockout punch. If you have heard the saying “The old 1-2,” this is what it is referring to – jab, cross. The cross is thrown with the same “coiled spring” concept as the jab, with the additional factor of torque provided by your shoulders and and hips. The straight can be extremely powerful, but that also makes it easy to over extend and leave yourself vulnerable. Because the cross takes longer to throw, it should almost always be thrown after a jab or other punch, so that your opponent has a hard time reacting or seeing it coming.

To throw a cross, turn your upper body towards your opponent by pivoting on your back foot and rotating your hips. Do not lunge forward with your body as this will leave you vulnerable.

As your back shoulder rotates forward, extend your arm like a coiled spring. Upon impact the top of your hand should be parallel to the ground. Keep your fist relaxed until just before impact.

Throughout the punch, maintain your guard with your left hand near your chin. After impact, quickly recoil your arm, and pivot back into your normal stance and guard.

Left Hook

The left hook is a punch that can be both quick and powerful. Lenedary trainer Freddy Roach once said that he would rather have a strong left hook than a right cross, because of its proximity to the opponent (being your front hand). The left hook can catch your opponent off guard, can catch them on their chin, or be thrown to the body. It works well at close range, or in response to a punch thrown by your opponent that leaves them exposed.

To throw a left hook transfer your weight briefly to your left side. It is important that you do not swing your body in this direction, but simply transfer weight subtly.

Quickly use your weight on the left foot to pivot back to the right, raising your elbow, and punching across your body with your arm parallel to the ground. Your arm should be bent at approximately a 90 degree angle. Your arm should be tight to your body, and not extended far.

The top of your fist can either be facing your opponent or parallel with the ground, but should be flat and in-line with your forearm.

Be careful not to over-extend yourself to your right leaving yourself vulnerable, and make sure to keep your right hand at your chin maintaining your guard throughout the punch.

Right Hook

The right hook is similar to the left hook, but can be more challenging to use because it is coming from your rear hand, making it slower. It is often used in combinations with the left hook, and while fighting at close range.

Throwing a right hook is done just like the left hook, but with directions reversed.

To throw a right hook, transfer your weight briefly to your right side. Quickly use that weight to then pivot left, while raising your elbow and punching across your body with your elbow bent. Keep your arm tight to your body and not extended far.

Make sure not to over-extend and leave yourself vulnerable, and to maintain your guard with your left hand near your chin throughout the punch.

Left Uppercut

Uppercuts can be very dangerous punches, that are typically thrown when fighting in close range, or in response to a punch thrown by your opponent. Uppercuts can be knockout punches if they connect with the chin, but are also used rapidly to the body which can significantly harm an opponents balance and strength. Like hooks, uppercuts should be tight and controlled because you will be vulnerable if thrown wildly and over-extended.

To throw a left uppercut (front hand) dip slightly to your left at your waist. Raise your back heel, put pressure on the ball of your front foot, and dip your left elbow slightly.

Rotate your fist upwards, and explode up in a sharp movement from the front foot. Do not over-extend your arm, but keep it close with a sharp bend in the elbow.

Maintain your guard with your right hand throughout the punch, and pull your left arm back into your guard as soon as it carries through.

You arm should remain close to your body, and not dip excessively low, or carry through excessively high.

Right Uppercut

As the right hook mirrors the left hook, so the right uppercut mirrors the left uppercut. It is thrown in the same situations as the left uppercut, and often in combination with the left uppercut to work an opponents body.

To throw a right uppercut, dip slightly right at your waist. Raise your front heel, put pressure on the ball on your back foot, and dip your right elbow slightly.

Rotate your fist up, and explode upwards in a sharp movement from your back foot. Maintain your guard with your left hand throughout the punch, and pull your right hand back into a guard after it carries through.

The Danger of Over-extending

Over-extending can mean two things, both of which are dangers you need to avoid.

First, over-extending can refer to swinging a punch farther away from your body that it is meant to be thrown. This is commonly done with hooks and uppercuts. This makes the punch easy to avoid, and leaves your body wide open to be attacked.

Second, over-extending can refer to extending your arm (in a jab or cross) to the point where your elbow locks out. In practice or shadowboxing, if you throw your punches to full extension, you will hurt your elbow. Your punches should end prior to full extension of your arm.

Custom Golf Carts

Today’s golf carts have become the perfect vehicle because it can often go to places where a larger car or truck would be in the way. They can be bought used or new, and then upgraded to meet ones needs. If opting to buy a used cart then have it customized, then there are several things you will want to consider, before making the decision to buy.

  • · Do you want a gas or electric powered cart? Gas carts are noisier, require more maintenance and have been banned in some states; however, they have more horsepower and can run longer on a single tank of gas than the average battery can last. They are also ideal for uneven terrain and can even pull and tow. The battery powered carts are less expensive to operate and are better for the environment. However, they must be recharged after a full day of use and do not typically have the ability to tow something.
  • · What type of body do you want it to have? From size to color, there is a variety of choices available. Talk to the dealer to learn what offerings there are.
  • · Do you want to have an affixed windshield? Depending on where you live, this could be important. If going for a custom cart, this is a great feature.
  • · What about a radio? If you are a music lover, this would also be a nice feature to include.
  • · Seat material – Customize your cart by opting for leather or a specific fabric. You could keep it the standard white, or opt for a logo or other pattern.
  • · How many seats? You can choose to have one seat, rear facing seats, or even an extra row of seats. The choice is yours.
  • · Headlights – If you will be driving at night or where low visibility is an issue, these will be important. You will also want to learn if headlights are required in your area.
  • · Can you see? In addition to headlights, many custom golf carts have side and rear-view mirrors added so drivers have better visibility.

The golf cart – no longer is it only found parked near the 18th hole. Today, you can have a custom golf cart to meet your needs and specs.

Play Golf Experience

Practice Makes Perfect

Players of all ages and abilities are most effective when they practice, practice, practice. Many stay and play golf facilities have driving ranges. There are some that have indoor simulators. Hitting balls is a great way to hone your skills, enhance balance control, and burn calories. You can also ask the staff about lessons or how you can practice with their pros.

Visit the Pro Shop On-Site

Is your equipment up to par? Do you need new gloves? Take your clubs to the pro shop and have the staff repair them. This is where you can solve the last minute hiccups that occur.

Rest and Hydration

Get at least 8 hours of sleep prior to your outing. It will improve your focus and performance. Be sure to drink plenty of water before tee time. Playing 18 holes in the sun can lead to dehydration if you do not drink enough fluids.

Warm Up

Before you begin playing, do some stretching exercises. Take a few minutes to extend your arms and legs. Making a few swings is another way to warm up. Hit a few balls and gauge how the wind is blowing.

Walking vs. Riding

If you walk the entire 18 holes, it is equivalent to a 5 mile walk or almost a 4 mile run. Using a cart is a helpful way to get around the greens if necessary, but walking the course can burn up to 2,000 calories.

Eating Healthy

Most stay and play golf courses offer healthy snacks to their patrons. Consider packing some fruits and vegetables to have on hand while you play. Granola bars and nuts will help you refuel and keep your mind sharp.

Keep Moving

A player can exceed 10,000 steps in a typical round. That is the recommended guideline for daily exercise. Stretching in between shots can burn more calories. If you are waiting for your turn, you can walk around and practice your swings.

Blade Classified

Attacks on the blade are preparatory actions directed at the opponent’s blade to remove the blade from the line, creating an opening through with a direct attack can be made. Alternatively they may remove the blade by provoking a lateral or circular response to the pressure which can be deceived by the attacker, for example, by disengage, coupe, or counterdisengage.

Although the term “attacks on the blade” has been criticized on the basis that a fencer cannot attack the blade, but only the opponent, I believe the term is the best description of what actually happens. These actions work by percussion, the application of quick, sharp force to the blade to set it in motion. The fencer applies force to the opponent’s blade to move it as part of an attacking action.

There are three common attacks on the blade:

The Press – executed from engagement, the press displaces the opponent’s blade by momentary lateral or semi-circular pressure on the blade until the actual attack is launched. The press is not as obviously threatening as the beat or froissement and may be maintained for a relatively long period before the final action of the attack.

The Beat – executed from a position where the blades are not in contact as a crisp impact on the opponent’s blade, displacing the blade from the line. The beat can be executed from engagement, but in this case requires detachment from the blade, potentially losing the element of surprise.

The Froissement (also termed Expulsion) – executed from engagement, this is a sharp grazing action which starts using the forte near the tip of the opponent’s blade and progesses down and in to violently deflect the blade, often ending with the attacker’s point out of line. This is the most difficult of the attacks on the blade to control, and probably the easiest to deceive. As a result it is not commonly used.

Choosing Golf Clubs

The first thing you have to do before you walk into any pro golf shop to buy golf clubs and golf club holders is to know your skill level. Your skill level will be beginner, intermediate or professional. Knowing what you are capable of when on the course will help your sales person identify the right clubs based on your skill level. Beginner clubs tend to be bigger than the professional options.

Next you need to know what you are going to need. Don’t be fooled as a beginner that you need more than you do. If you are still learning, don’t get overwhelmed with all the different options available. Stick to the basics. If you have been playing with certain clubs and you are comfortable with them, then don’t change them now. Focus on buying the same or similar to what you have been using. You can always add more as and when you start to improve and become more confident in the game.

Once you have some indication of your skill level and what you are going to need to play a game of golf regularly to improve, you need to remember that bigger is not always better. As a beginner, it is common to purchase bigger clubs which give you a little more control when swinging, but it is also not always the best option. Speak with your sales assistant and ensure that they understand what you need. Sometimes buying slightly smaller can help you improve your game and start moving up the ranks to intermediate.

Set yourself a budget before you purchase any golf clubs. Setting a budget and knowing what you can afford can help you make the best financial decisions based on what you are looking for. Take some time, do your own research and identify the type of clubs you will be looking for, this can help you set your budget before you start searching.

Whether you are new to golf or you have been playing for some time, you can always find that lessons can be highly beneficial to your game. You don’t have to take golf seriously, it may be a fun game with the family or with friends, a chance to get out in the fresh air and have a good walk, but you also want to ensure that you have your swing right and that you know how to complete the course with the minimum amount of swings.

Your height is essential when it comes to buying golf clubs. You will be measured from your hip height to your feet. This will enable the sales assistant to give you the right height golf cub so you can swing with ease and confidence, hitting the ball every time.

If you are a company and your clients are golfers and you want to learn the game, remember to get professional assistance from your local pro shop. It is also worthwhile considering having some custom golf club holders made which you can hand out to friends you make along the way to help increase your business visibility in the local area.

Buying Tree Climbing Gear

Determine your budget

Many types of tree climbing gear are relatively affordable, from ropes to throw weights. However, there are other items that can be a bit more of an investment, especially if you begin to invest in professional-quality climbing harnesses, ascenders and descenders. If you are going to be climbing for a career or as a serious hobby, investing in more equipment and setting a higher budget is often worthwhile as you can become a much more effective climber with more advanced gear. However, if you plan to climb only occasionally or if you are buying tree climbing gear for a child who may outgrow his or her fascination with climbing trees, you might want to start small.

Define your climbing needs

First, you need the basic requirements for safety. An OSHA/ANSI approved saddle, lanyard and climbing line are essentials. When it comes to carabiners, there are many options available from screw lock, twist lock to ball lock. Just remember for climbing you must have double auto locking carabiners. There are also choices for throw lines and throw weights. The heavier the throw ball the farther it will go in the tree. Don’t forget a hard hat. Groundsmen can wear the Bullard, or fill rim style while climbers should wear a climbing helmet with cushion and a chin strap. For climbing spikes or spurs, there are choices of irons or lighter-weight aluminum. There are different pads to choose from depending on your personal preference, comfort and budget. Accessories such as ascenders, descenders, bags and storage may also come in handy as well, so don’t forget to consider these items when you think about the types of tear climbing gear you want to buy.

Size your gear appropriately

Harnesses come in small, medium, large and ex-large. You must have a proper fit not only for comfort but safety as well. All harnesses have leg and waist adjustments to tailor to your body. Your saddle/harness should fit snug but have enough adjustments for cooler weather when you wear more layers. However, there are different harnesses for kids than for adults, so you’ll need to make sure you get the right products. Children’s harnesses have weight ratings so make sure you are safe and protected by the harness you buy.

Info of Types of Climbing

Top rope climbing- Top rope climbing is the way that most everyone learns to climb. It is the least dangerous and the easiest to learn at the start. My kids climb top rope and I have seen kids as young as three years old begin learning. If you can fit in the equipment, you can learn to top rope climb. This is also the type of climbing that many pregnant women do long into their pregnancies until they are too far along to climb comfortably anymore. In top rope climbing, the climber is tied to the end of the rope which runs up to an anchor point at the top and back down to a belayer on the ground who will hold the climber’s fall. The rope is always above the climber so no real “falling” occurs.

Lead climbing- Once you have learned the basics of safety and the mechanics of climbing, you may move into lead climbing. This requires more mental commitment than having the top rope above you at all times. You will be tied to your harness with one end of the rope, which will trail along as you climb. The trailing end of the rope goes down to the belayer who will feed the rope out through a belay device. If the lead climber falls, the belayer is there with equipment to help slow/stop the fall and will take most of the force of the fall. However, unlike top rope climbing, there is potential for a real fall to happen.

Bouldering- Bouldering refers to climbing outdoors on boulders or at the bases of cliffs. You will use just climbing shoes and a chalk bag and it is very physically demanding. You don’t climb very high off the ground so there is no need to ropes or belay. Usually the climber can jump off the bouldering surface without injury. Usually bouldering is done at 10-12 feet off the ground or lower.

Sport climbing- Sport climbing is growing a great deal in popularity and is excellent physical activity while still being relatively safe. It’s done using a rope and belay but sport climbs are bolted so the leading climber doesn’t have to place their own protection. Instead, you carry quickdraws and place them into the eye of the pre-positioned bolts as you are climbing. Sport climbs are usually (but not always) shorter routes.

Indoor climbing- Indoor climbing is becoming more popular today than ever before. It allows safe, climate-controlled climbing in a structured environment. Most indoor rock climbing facilities have the option for different types of climbing and bouldering. They usually also offer rental equipment, lessons and structured activities. Indoor climbing is a great way to build the fundamentals you need for outdoor climbing as well.