- The first step is going to deal with your approach. As you approach the line to release the ball, you have to make sure that you put forward enough momentum in your legs and arm. You’ll find that your body shifts weight proportionately through your arms and legs simultaneously giving the ball kinetic energy to go down the lane once you release it from your hands and grip. This motion needs to be swift, and well timed. If done properly, you can command the ball to go down the middle, hitting the first pin with such a great violence that it will hit all other pins and garner you a strike. If you’re not fully aware of your approach, practice at home, and lift weights so that you’re prepared when faced with a real life opportunity to score.
- The second step is in regards to releasing the ball. There are several rules of thumb when considering this option, but most professionals will agree that you need to add a bit of spin to the ball to maximize your ratio and percentage of knocking down all pins. In order to add spin to your ball, it’s imperative that you curve your release slightly so that the ball’s momentum carries through your fingers and into the balls range of motion. This will take some practice, but once you have figured out how to twist your wrist and arm at the right moment, you’ll be able to curve the ball to make the energy transfer properly at the end of the lane, giving you a strike each time.
- The third step is brute force. If you can’t really finesse your way to getting a 300, simply use all your strength. If you can garner your strength to send the ball and hit the king pin upfront with such a force that it will rattle the lanes, you will get a strike each time. This force has to be extreme in nature, and you have to make sure that the ball does not curve; it has to go straight through and as hard as you can possibly muster. Most people can’t seem to get the same momentum with each throw, but if you can harness your strength and keep a straight path in your release, you will in fact hit 300 at the end of the 10 frames.
Power punches can also be called straight punches or a cross punch. This is not to be confused with any sort of jab or hook. Reason being that these punches are so incredibly powerful is because the full weight of the body is behind them and they are thrown with the person’s dominant hand. The dominant hand is always the strongest one of the two and is the one that a person usually eats with, writes with, throws with, etc.
An important tip to remember when throwing any punch, but especially a power punch, is to aim about one inch past your opponent. This should give you the sense that you are punching through them rather than retracting as soon as you make any contact. In baseball, you follow through your swing, golf and hockey you do the same.
Whichever hand is being thrown, it is important to remember to pivot that same foot and transfer your weight accordingly. Unfortunately if you are all lined up for this power punch and actually miss your opponent, you have set yourself up to be counterattacked pretty easily. But without any great risks, there are no great rewards!
A proper punch is thrown from the ground up, everything needs a solid foundation. This includes your foot, knee, hips, shoulders and fist. All of these parts have to be strong and work simultaneously in order to throw a power punch. Again, full extension and follow through is pertinent. All of the above information should be carefully revised and remembered when throwing a power punch.
With boxing, especially in comparison to any other contact sport, proper technique takes time, and practice certainly does make perfect. One cannot expect to have the proper rhythm down when first learning how to use a speed bag. Boxing is great tool that simply breaks one down completely and rebuilds them. A great coach/instructor will be able to do this, but at the same time the fighter must be absolutely willing to allow this to happen an also possess the right mentality and heart of a fighter.
- The ready position. To hit a forehand, firstly one must get into position before hitting the ball. Bend your knees slightly and assume a comfortable crouch. Hold your racket with your hands gripping the racket at your comfortable grip; usually eastern or semi-eastern grip. Now, you are ready to head off in any direction to hit the ball. Stay relaxed and focused with your eyes on the ball all the time.
- Take your racket back and move towards the ball, at the same time, turn your body to a quarter to the right.
- Footwork. From a ready position with your racquet back, take one step forward with your left foot. This automatically brings your left foot nearest the ball and turned your body sideways to the net. Remaining in that same position, advance towards the ball. Do not rush towards the ball but instead take small skipping steps towards the ball.
- Hitting the ball. Now you have a comfortable hitting position. You have made your choice as to the height you want the ball to be at the moment of striking it. This is your choice, not your opponents. The choice depends on your footwork. If you want to hit the ball from a high position, you advanced nearer to it. If you like the ball from a lower height, you gauge the drop of the ball accordingly. Your footwork has been completed ahead of time, and your body is at rest. You’re poised in a steady balance position. Now hit the ball. Pivot the weight of your body into the stroke and meet the ball with your racket. Swing into it smoothly, employing timing, one, two. One, swing-two, hit. When you hit the ball your work is over. Remember to watch the ball into the strings of your racquet. The swing should be from low to high.
- Follow through. The follow through will complete the forehand stroke and can also determine whether the forehand will be flat or topspin. If the follow through is below your shoulder, the shot would usually be a flat shot.
There was no grace, there was no finesse, and I’m sure I could have climbed (what is considered the easiest bouldering grade in climbing) with a little more elegance, but Ms. Never-Doing-a-Highball finally did her first highball.
Location: Bishop, California
Coordinates: 37.3635° N, 118.3951° W
Type of Climbing: Boulder, Sport, Trad
Geology: Volcanic Tuff, Quartz Monzonite
Known for: Premier Highball Bouldering
Prime Season: Nov-April
Star Rating (out of 5): 5*
It was 4 months into our relationship when David and I went on our first weeklong road trip together. I, for one, believed it was a relationship survival test masquerading as a climbing trip, but what better way to learn if your boyfriend is the one for you than to be enclosed together in a metal box on wheels for 20 hours? Thankfully, the relationship came out alive, and 20 long hours later, we made it to the land of skin-splitting highballs.
The actual town of Bishop is quite big, and the residents and visitors consist of not only climbers, but of other outdoor enthusiasts alike. The locals are blessed to have the popular bakery known as Erick Schat’s Bakkerÿ famous for their original Sheepherder Bread®. For us, their chili-cheese bread was a great way to refuel our bodies after a hard session of climbing rock, although I’m sure many high-performing athletes would have disagreed…
For $2 USD a night, we stayed in “the Pit” campground. Our accommodation unit was David’s Green Honda Element, commonly known as “the Hulk”. The back of the SUV was converted cleverly as our sleeping space, cushioning the hard plastic ground using one tattered, sad-looking Madrock crash pad.
During the week that we were there, we had a simple routine. I called it, the “Routine of the Valley People”… (for no apparent reason other than it sounded pretty frickin’ awesome). The days would always begin with the sweet light of nature’s alarm clock, the sun. After having an easy breakfast of yogurt and cereal, we would clean up, pack up the crash pads, and head straight into town for our first stop. We needed our daily boost of caffeine and our “go-to” was Looney Bean, a coffee shop just off the main road. There, we would update on our social media sites and write back home to let our family and friends we were still alive.
After our morning duties, we went out to play!
There were three main boulder areas that David was most familiar with:
The Buttermilks (his favourite)
The Happy Boulders
The Sad Boulders (my favourite)
On our first day, we hit up the Happy’s. It was pretty overcast that afternoon but the conditions were good. Warmer days made it harder to climb as a result of less friction; cooler days were favourable. The Happy’s was where I climbed my first highball. I wasn’t entirely keen at first, but when one is in the land of highballs, one must climb a highball…
After our first day of preparing ourselves up for the week ahead, we headed back into town and grabbed some essentials, namely food and toothbrushes. Our meals weren’t too extravagant, but they sure beat a lot of other campers’ meals. (That happens quite often when your boyfriend is an amazing chef, even with the most limited of resources.)
On the consecutive days, we would mainly climb at the Milks. This climbing venue is quite possibly the most well known if not most popular area in Bishop. It is home to some of the hardest routes in the world such as the Mandala V12 and Evilution V11 in the milks.
A unique feature of the Milks includes the highballs, which could reach up to 5-stories high at the peak. While highball climbs are ones I stay shy of, it’s breathtaking and awe-inspiring to watch other climbers push their mental game.
During our entire stay, we had two rest days. One was spent at a natural hot spring at a slightly secret location (in which I will only reveal the whereabouts in exchange for your favourite secret location… or “the Google”); the other rest day was spent in a secluded stretch of brush and weeds where we basked in the sun, played around, and drank beers. We also had a game of “pull body hairs out with tweezers”, but it got old real quick.
Like many runners, I was not someone who cleaned their running shoes because I feared that they would become permanently damaged. However, as an attempt to keep them fresh I have tried hand washing with soap and water, as recommended, yet I could not get rid of the smell. When I grew tired of the smell, I decided to try giving them a try in the wash machine and they came out surprisingly clean. The best part is the smell was gone and when I went for a run, washing them had not affected their performance. Therefore, I recommend that all runners first try this method on their older running shoes.
- Step 1, Turn your wash machine to a gentle cycle with cold water. Never use hot water because it will damage the adhesive and distort the shoes’ shape.
- Step 2, Use an old toothbrush to remove built up mud and dirt before you place them in the washer.
- Step 3, Remove your shoe strings and insoles, these should be washed with your running clothes. The clothes will help muffle the annoying tumbling noise from the shoes. If you have more than one pair of running shoes only wash one pair per load to avoid damaging your machine.
- Step 4, If possible use a non-beach, fragrance free, organic washing detergent. Alternatively, you could use a special sports detergent formulated for performance clothes. Sports detergent is supposed to remove odor without corrupting sweat wicking or water repellent fabric. Personally, I used plain liquid detergent with a ½ a cup of white vinegar and a ½ a cup baking soda. The vinegar kills the bacteria and fungi while the baking soda deodorizes and acts as a fabric softer. Make sure you do not overdo it with detergent to prevent stiff clothes.
- Step 5, When the load has finished make sure you air dry your shoes in the sun or in a warm area of your home. Do not try to put them in a dryer or use a hand dryer because the excessive heat will warp your shoes. Add newspaper inside the shoes to help them maintain their shape and to soak up the extra moisture. After a few hours remove the newspaper and open up the shoe tongue to insure, your shoes dry completely. Keep in mind it can take ten to twelve hours for your running shoes to dry.
Get in shape and prepare physically
You cannot wake up one morning and decide to go climb a mountain because you put your health at risk. High Altitude Mountains are really challenging and you must commit weeks of exercising and training before you finally start the climb to the pick. Create a workout schedule that puts your body to the test so it is able to withstand the varying terrains and conditions you might face when climbing the mountain. Try including high elevations, boulder fields and varied terrains in your workout program so the body becomes used to what is expected. It is also very advisable to increase cardiovascular intensity workouts and to include weighted workouts because you will be carrying refreshments and other gear as you go up the mountain. If going as a team, then you can also do the workouts together.
Get mentally prepared for possible challenges
The fact is that not everyone who prepared and desires to climb a mountain always makes it to the top. The climb does have possible impacts that might change everything; you may not always get the results that you expect at the end of the day. For instance, you might choose the perfect time to climb the mountain only for the weather to change drastically from sunny to snow, rain and hail. Injuries are also possibilities that can cut short your climb; death is also very possible especially in high altitude mountains. Even as you keep an eye on the weather forecasts around the time of the climb, ensure that you get regular health checks before you set out to climb to minimize the risks of not making it to the summit as you expect.
Get your climbing gear ready
It might be sweaty to climb a high altitude mountain, but the temperatures can get pretty low. Ensure therefore, that you dress appropriately making sure that you pay attention to how comfortable you feel in the gear you choose. Hiking boots that fit comfortably, breathable but warm clothes, gloves, fleece hats, scarves are some of the things you should think about. Other important items include polarized sunglasses, trekking poles and of course a solid backpacking bag. First aid equipment and water bottles and other snacks should also be included when packing for the climb.
Design of the Head:
The head design you prefer is highly influenced by your signature stroke. There are three types of putter head design: blade, peripheral-weighted and mallet. If you have more of a straight putting stroke and consider yourself a precise player, a blade putter is your best choice. If you have intermediate skills, the peripheral-weighted putter features longer, thinner blades as well as additional weight in the heel to allow for a greater level of forgiveness for your stroke. If you are new to the game, a mallet putter contains a lot of alignment aids that assists with improving performance.
If you have a straight-back-straight-through putting stroke, a face-balance putter is ideal for you due to its face that looks upward. If you have an arc in your putting stroke, a toe-balanced putting is the best choice for you.
There are three types of putter faces: metal-faced, insert-faced and groove-faced. Metal-faced putters are best for players looking for a controlled feel. Insert-faced putters re-distribute the weight of the putter, allowing more forgiveness on the stroke.
The length of the putter plays a key role in determining the quality of consistency in your stroke. The minimum required length is 18 inches. Ideally, your arms should hang naturally when you are about to putt so that there is no strain. There are two legal shaft lengths: traditional and long. The most commonly used is traditional, which ranges from 32-26 inches in length. If you have the tendency of breaking your wrists through the stroke, an arm-lock putter is best for you.
The grip is the part of the putter that you touch, so it is important that it is comfortable for you. Putter grips can vary in thickness, shape, weight, length and materials. Firmer grips lessen the impact creating more feedback, while softer grips enhance rhythm and provide less feedback. A longer grip allows you more range of where you prefer to hold the putter, allowing you to distribute your weight according to what’s comfortable for your swing. Thicker grips, which are extremely popular, eliminating the influence of your finger and wrist which provides opportunity for a larger margin of error.
There are many reasons to start running. Since you are reading this article, you probably have a few reasons of your own. Running is relatively easy to get into- it requires little skill and special equipment. Running is a great way to increase cardiovascular fitness, bone density and can be a great stress reliever. It burns calories, helps you lose weight, and you can run just about anywhere- whether you’re at home or away on travels. If you’re not into a regular running routine, and want to be, now is the perfect time to start. You’re likely back to a regular routine after the summer, and the cool fall weather is more conducive to running outdoors. Follow these three steps for running success!
- Step 1: Get ready! Before you lace up your shoes and hit the roads, do a little preparation. If you are new to exercise, or if you have a medical condition, talk to your doctor before you begin. Once you have received the go ahead, set a specific, realistic and measurable goal for yourself. Your goal may be, for example, to follow a specific run program three times per week, or to complete a 5-kilometer run in the spring. Next, look at your shoes. If the soles are worn thin, or you vaguely remember buying them a few years ago, it is definitely time for a new pair. If you have worn your shoes for more than six months, a new pair is recommended. Do not choose your shoe based on the colours! Instead choose a pair that is suitable for the way you run. For example, some people are ‘neutral’ runners, and require a neutral shoe. Others over pronate and benefit from a shoe that offers more stability. A running specific shoe store can offer you advice on which shoe is best for you. Running clothes, such as tights, and flashy running tops are nice to have and will make your runs more comfortable. If you’re on a budget though, invest first in the right pair of shoes.
- Step 2: Follow a plan. Create a personal running schedule. Include when and where you will run, and for how long. Use your judgment to keep safe while running. For example, if you run at night, wear bright clothing and run with a friend. When it comes to running, it pays off to be the tortoise and take it slow. Start with a walk to warm up. Next, run for 30 seconds to a minute. Make sure that you are able to keep up a conversation while you run. Walk briskly for two to four minutes and repeat three to six times. Walk again at the end to warm down. Slowly increase the time spent running each week or at your own pace. Remember to have fun! Be sure to keep hydrated, and to listen to your body. If you feel abnormally tired, or if you are sore, take a break. It’s okay to take a rest day, even if it’s not planned. UrbanEndo Runners in Garrison Crossing offers Learn to Run programs, as well as running programs for intermediate and advanced runners.
- Step 3: Keep running! Soon enough you will be comfortable running 20 minutes or more on a regular basis. Now is the most important time to stay motivated so you keep running. Change your running route regularly to keep your runs exciting. Keep motivated by setting goals, running with a partner, training for a race, or joining a running club. The Vedder Running Club welcomes runners and walkers of all abilities.
- The bow is the primary thing needed in archery. The only time that we understand the best bow for us is to know their parts. Knowing how to use them and how they work is also relevant. When we visit an archery shop, we can see various kinds of bow. Some of them include the unfinished bamboo backed longbow, longbows, youth longbow, custom longbows, finished longbows, medieval longbows and more. There are five main types of a bow. The five types include the longbow, bow, the crossbow, the compound bow and the short bow.
- The bowstring is what makes the bow has its curved shape. Many bow strings are often made with synthetic fiber materials, plant fibers and animal materials. The center of the bowstring is a thread that often gives support to the arrow.
- The next pertinent material needed in the sport is the arrow. There are so many arrow types in the market today. Some of them include the youth arrows, lacquered cedar arrow, cedar hunting arrows, cedar classic arrows, gold tip carbon arrows and a lot more.
- The shaft is the end or the tip of the arrow. Traditional cedar arrow shafts or arrow shafts are usually made from wood. Nowadays, many people use aluminum, fiberglass, carbon and composite materials in making the arrow shaft. Wood shafts are common to beginners because of their light materials. Bow hunters and players make use of the aluminum shaft. Carbon materials maintain velocity because they are susceptible and wind resistant.
- The point can be found on the arrowhead, and they are often made from different materials like metal and other hard materials.
- Fletch is the material on the other end of the arrow. Most of them are often made from feathers or plastic. The purpose of the material is to keep the arrow from moving straight towards the goal.
Gaining focus in any self defense discipline starts with knowing the core moves. Core moves are the basic elements that must be learned to fit with in the style. The core elements and the advanced moves usually work well together, giving the fighter a complete set of skills that typify the fight style.
Some fight styles are more appropriate for actual self defense, and others work better in demonstration and competition. Military combative training is perhaps the best self defense skill for the streets. Boxing is a close second. Self defense is about being well prepared so that confidence works in your favor.
Luckily few criminals are true self defense experts. They are criminals that have chosen a life of crime rather that pursue personal achievement or excellence. However their defense skills are usually built on the streets in tough situations, and for this reason should be regarded warily as an opponent.
Military combative training provides a fully evolved set of survival skills for combat. Handheld weapons, combinations of boxing, judo and Greco-Roman wrestling describe the combative training candidate. A further advantage of this type of training is the element weight class is disregarded. The skill of the fighter must be able to transcend weight class, beating larger more powerful foes, or smaller, very quick foes. Mental focus is developed as the variety of maneuvers are practiced to the point of being automatically repeatable.
While boxing is more limited in scope, it is more precise and powerful. The four basic punches of jab, cross, hook and upper cut are the core maneuvers. Variants of these punches along with feigning to confuse the opponent provide elements of advanced moves that make boxing a superb self defense discipline. The maneuvers are practiced with great frequency, making them a simple habit or reflex. Requiring little to no preparation, the maneuvers flow from the boxer quite naturally as the opponent attacks.