Choose A Bicycle For A Child

While buying a bicycle may seem like a no-brainer to most parents, it is an important task and should be given due attention. The main factor to be considered while choosing the right bike for your child is the inseam length – the measurement of the inner leg. This is important because your child needs adequate space between his/her inner leg and the top tube while standing. If the top tube is too close to the intersection of inner leg, there is a chance of getting hurt while getting on and off the bike. This is applicable for adults as well.

More so, as kids get acquainted with bicycles, there are more chances of them taking a tumble here and there. Hence, it is critical to that the ‘stand over height’ is correctly chosen.

So where do parents go wrong in choosing the right bike? The general mentality of parents is to choose a bike that is slightly bigger for the child so that he/she can use it for a few more years (than what would otherwise have to be done away within a shorter span). What they don’t realize is that this is not favorable because the bike’s frame is larger than the child, causing him/her discomfort especially when reaching for the handlebar and the ‘stand over height’ is insufficient. Getting the size of your child’s bike right is crucial – if it’s too big or too small, it will be trickier to ride and could cause an accident.

The following are pointers you can keep in mind while choosing your munchkin’s bike – this corresponds with the child’s age:

• 2 – 4 years: Balance (has no pedals, cranks and brakes, helping the tiny tot balance and steer with minimum distraction) bikes
• 3 – 5 years: 12 inch-wheel bikes
• 4 – 7 years: 16 inch-wheel bikes
• 5 – 10 years: 20 inch-wheel bikes
• 8 – 14 years: 24 inch-wheel bikes
• 11(+) years: 26 inch-wheel bikes

The general rule-of-thumb is that the size of the kid’s bike is ideally determined by the wheels’ diameter (not frame-size like adult bikes). The bicycle should fit the child. All children need to feel safe and comfortable on a bike, whether they admit it or not – they will only make the most of their new wheels if they are confident.

Modern Fencing

We first have to define distance. Distance has been defined as physical distance between the two fencers measured by the extension and whether footwork (the lunge, and advance lunge) is needed to carry that extension of the weapon to target. Given the differences in overall reach, in sabre and epee the advanced target and multiple distances depending on the intended target, and the mobility of opponents, this has never been truly satisfactory. For example, a fencer can be at traditional medium (lunge) distance, but to catch an opponent have to deliver the attack by advance lunge inside the opponent’s response time and OODA loop.

The first change to thinking about modern distance is to reorder distance from further away to closer to the target. We do not start attacks at short distance with an extension. We have to get to the distance at which the extension can hit.

Second, there are two sets of distances, your and your opponent’s, and multiple subsets in epee and sabre, based on the target attacked and the target defended.

Third, we must include the opponent’s tactical intention in the equation. An attack met by the opponent collapsing the distance is no longer at lunge distance, and actually never was given the tactical intent of the two fencers.

Fourth, we need to use actual tempo as a determinant of the distance. An attack with an advance-lunge, even a fast accelerating advance lunge, is a two tempo action and inherently takes longer, and is thus tactically slower than an attack with a lunge. This is regardless of how the rules define an advance lunge for right of way purposes.

And finally, there are three special cases. Counteroffense occurs within a tempo. Infighting distance and passing distance are two special cases in which the action occurs regardless of tempo (infighting) and as an expanding tempo (passing).

So what is a better approach? The old division into 3 or 5 distances is less relevant in modern fencing than an approach based on the fluidity of action. I suggest distances that are actual envelopes of space and time:

Preparation distance – distance at which preparatory foot and blade work are required to get to the distance at which you can expect to hit the mobile opponent in a two tempo action (with tempo being defined actually as the time to complete a simple blade or footwork action regardless of how the rules define tempo for right of way purposes).

Two tempo distance – distance at which you can hit the opponent on the desired target with a two tempo attack. This may be the old out of distance if the opponent is stepping forward or the medium distance if the opponent can be expected to retreat under attack. For the defender, this is the distance at which either blade preparation or the final action can be defeated and in which the defender’s action can control the tempo required for the riposte.

One tempo distance – the distance where a one tempo blade action or combined one tempo blade and footwork action can result in a hit. This can be anywhere in the old advance-lunge or lunge distances. For the defender this is the envelope to defeat the final attack or the distance at which the advanced parry intercepts the early development of the attack.

Inside tempo or counteroffense distance – the distance at which the fencer under attack can hit with counteroffense. With fast footwork this can be anywhere in the attacker’s two or one tempo distances. The defender is operating literally within one of the attacker’s tempos.

Infighting distance – the distance at which tempo is largely irrelevant, the action is confused with multiple attempts to place the blade, and unusual attitudes are required to reach the target.

Passing distance – the opening distance as the opponent is past the defender and in which the referee’s assessment of the immediacy of the defender’s attempt to hit becomes the dominant factor as to whether there the hit is allowed.

This approach requires a good tactical understanding of both the attacker’s and the defender’s courses of action by both fencers, identifies the category of actions each will need, accounts for both fencers’ movement, and sequences the distances in the actual flow of the bout to start where the action starts. It is not something you teach in a beginner’s class. However, for intermediate and advanced fencers it should make distance more relevant, not just something you read about in the first chapter of a fencing manual.

Boxing Combinations

Purpose of Boxing Combinations

Boxing combinations are designed to maximize the vulnerabilities opened by patterns of punches, and to use your own weight and balance from one punch to generate power for subsequent punches.

Shifting Weight in Combinations

A primary element in forming boxing combinations is your weight transfer. As discussed in the basics of boxing punches, many punches involve a transfer of weight from left to right, and a twist of the hips and upper body.

Instead of resuming our guard after twisting right, we can alternatively use that weight on the right to feed a new twist to the left. For example, you throw a left hook, which transfers weight from left to right, followed by a right hook, which then takes that weight on the right and transfers it back to the left.

Basic boxing Combinations

The following are some basic boxing combinations. These combinations are explained for orthodox (right-handed) fighters. If you are a southpaw (left-handed) fighter, the motions are reversed (a three becomes a right hook not a left hook).

1-2 (Jab-Cross)

The old 1-2 is the staple boxing combination and is often used as part of larger more complex combinations. It is both fast, and can be powerful.

When throwing a 1-2, your cross should extend at the same time that your jab is recoiling. Make sure that when a hand isn’t extended it should be guarding your head.

1-2-3 (Jab-Cross-Left hook)

Follow the 1-2 with a left hook and you have a 1-2-3. Often an opponent might be occupied or slow in reacting to your cross, which leaves the side of their face wide open for a hook.

At the end of your cross, your hips and shoulders should have twisted to bring your back shoulder forward. Use this position as the beginning weight-transfer for your hook. With your body already pivoted, raise your front elbow and throw your hook as your back hand recoils from the cross.

2-3-2 (Cross-Left hook-Cross)

This combinations heavily relies on weight transfer.

Like in the 1-2-3, you throw a hook using the already pivoted position that resulted from a cross. But this time, as your cross twists your body and transfer weight to the right, you use that point as the starting position for another cross.

Visualize your right shoulder coming forward with a cross, the left hook rotating your right shoulder back into it’s original position, ready for it to return once more with another cross. Lots of power is generated from the hips in this combination.

3-2-3 (Left hook-Cross-Left hook)

This is exactly like the 2-3-2 but with hooks at the start and end.

Throw a hook, which pulls your right shoulder back as a result of the hips/shoulder twist, then rotate with a powerful cross which puts you right back in position to throw another left hook.

3-6-3 (Left hook-Right uppercut-Left hook)

The 3-6-3 catches many opponents off guard because they might be expecting a 3-2-2 and because the punches come from both high and low.

Throw a left hook, and then when your weight is on your right/back shoulder dip your waist to the right, raise your back heel, and throw a right uppercut. The uppercut should leaves shoulders open – in perfect position to return another left hook.

Mixing It Up

Basic combinations can be changed and tweaked in many ways. Here are several ways that you can get more out of these combinations:

  • Since you don’t typically want to lead with a cross, throw a jab prior to a 2-3-2. This makes 1-2-3-2.
  • Throw a variable number of jabs before or after a combination. This makes a 1-2 into a 1-1-2 or a 1-2-1-1
  • Throw a jab before a left hook to catch an opponent off guard with two left handed punches.
  • Mix up high and low punches. Try 3-6-3 where the first hook is low and the second is high, or reversed.
  • Combine combinations. An example is 1-2-3-2 or 1-2-3-6-3 or 1-2-1-2

Most Common Types Of Bikes

Mountain

Mountain bikes are designed for off-road riding. They have multiple gears for riding up and down hills, paths, washes, and trails of varying inclines. To deal with the sand, dirt, mud, and gravel commonly encountered off-road, these models are equipped with wide tires with knobs to provide greater traction. Rather than curved handlebars, mountain handlebars are generally straight. The rider generally sits upright while riding this style.

Hybrid

Hybrid bikes are probably the most common style seen today. They are a combination of mountain and road bicycles, making them well suited for multiple terrain types. The handlebars are straight and the seating position is upright, just like a mountain model. The frame will usually be lightweight, the tires narrower and smoother, which makes for smoother, easier rides on pavement. As with the two styles it has evolved from, a hybrid usually has multiple gears.

BMX

BMX (bicycle motocross) bicycles are very popular with stunt riders, certain types of off-road racers, and youths. The BMX style is generally for a smaller frame bike, built robustly to handle hard landings and other stunts. The front wheel and handlebars can be rotated 360 degrees to allow for tricks, and the models will only have one gear. Due to the smaller nature of the frames, riders will generally stand while pedaling.

Cruiser

Cruiser models are designed for ease of use and a comfortable ride. As a result, they are popular with adult riders who are new to riding, or only do so occasionally. Cruisers offer an upright seating position and a fixed gear, so the rider simply has to sit down and start pedaling. Their wide tires make them comfortable. Due to their heavy steel frames and single gear, they are generally rather slow compared to most other types.

Started With Biking

Determination to Pursue Cycling. It is normal to be hesitant to get on that bike and worry about what people might say or how you would look. Don’t fret. Most experienced heavy riders attest that such feeling won’t last. All you have to do is to have that determination to get on that bike and pedal your way to good health. You can conquer that fear however, you might want to take that first step.

Choose a bike that fits. The first thing you might want to consider is getting a bike that fits. You may consult your local bike shop for bike fitting. Giving the bicycle a test ride to see how comfortable you are riding it would be a good idea.

Start with flat terrain. You may want to start out riding through flat terrains in your yard, neighborhood street or the park area. Carefully plan your route so you would be biking along paths you are confident you can tackle. Then as you gain your confidence you can start biking with uphill terrain but a level higher at a time.

Practice getting on and off the bike. Among the fears of a beginner cyclist is the awkwardness of getting on and getting off the bike. You may want to practice this in your yard till you gain the confidence to do so outside.

Practice using gears. It may be an advantage if you become familiar with the gears on your bicycle and know when and how to use them. You may consult an experienced rider or your local bike shop for advice. You can practice using the gears on your bike at a nearby park. When you are confident with your riding, you can ride farther and enjoy the benefits of cycling outdoors.

Becoming An Elite Tennis Player

Commitment To Excellence

The top players train their mind, bodies and spirit everyday.

Through this daily training, they are able to strengthen all 3 at the same time!!

The key factor being.

How they train.

They train at a high level, even when they aren’t feeling good, and this is the sign of an elite player, who is determined to be the best they can be.

How about you?

Do you train and give your all in practice everyday?

Clearly Define Goals.

Your tennis goals need to be written down on paper and posted up for you to see and picture daily to yourself.

You also need to keep writing them down and rewriting them in present tense.

This create the clarity that you need when working on your goals.

Question.

How often do you write down your tennis goals?

Play To Win.

The top tennis players play to win all the time.

They never even enter a tennis match, until they have won that match in their minds first!!

This allows them to pre-program themselves for victory on the court.

Because they have already won the match mentally, they are more mentally stronger under pressure.

“Elite players expect and demand the very best from themselves, in every match that they play in and it doesn’t matter who their opponent is across the net”.

The powerful thing about this mindset in competition is,

You can lose a match and still walk off the court, feeling like a winner and that is a powerful feeling to have after a lost!!

Beat The Street Fighter With Boxing

In any sort type of fighting style, knowing all you can know and being prepared is usually what it all comes down to. In boxing, knowing how to stand properly and throw a punch properly will greatly increase one’s chances of a win. Knowing the different kinds of jabs as well and blocking properly are also techniques that come in handy. Stamina and focus is what seems to really separate the great boxers from the not so great ones, the mentality and smarts to wear down their opponent. Great boxers have the capability to make it look effortless – this should be what one is trying to achieve!

Another great tip that can be offered is that not only knowing the proper boxing techniques will help one win but also knowing about the opponents fighting style will give you the upper hand. This will allow one to be more prepared, than or as prepared as they could be if caught off guard in any situation. Focusing on one fighting style and mastering it can take years but knowing the basics of other fighting styles and how to defend against their attacks is equally as important.

With street fighting, one has to be more aware about the use of weapons or the opponent fighting “dirty.” Most street fighters pretty much maintain the mentality of doing what they can to win the fight or getting what they want. They are not concerned about a fair match up; they are looking to really hurt someone. With boxing, one may really hurt the opponent but of course this is not the main goal! This is really something one should keep in mind.

Unfortunately most street fights that are encountered are not planned out and just occur. A well trained boxer should definitely be able to handle this situation properly without really getting hurt or hurting the other person either. Bottom line is, no matter how good one thinks they are someone is always better. So there is always room for improvement and knowledge is the power that helps every fighter, win, their matches.

Buying Clipless Bike Pedals

Toe cages and strap fundamentally serve a similar purpose. This pedals style secures your shoe a bit more firmly onto the pedal providing certain ability to push and pull through a pedal cycle. The benefits of this type pedal include the ability to wear virtually any shoe eliminating need for special bike shoes, easy entry and exit from the cage or strap so the learning curve is minimal. These style pedals have very little additional maintenance if any.

Clipless pedals are a great indication you have evolved into a serious rider. Most cited reasons for using this style pedal are aligned with improved performance like speed or distance. If you are debating the pros and cons of using this style pedal then be mindful of the learning curve you’ll go need to go through to correctly use a clipless pedal system.

Observing many cyclists over the past year, I found a majority of the cyclists experienced a small spill at the beginning of their clipless pedal phase. My first incident occurred as I was approaching a red light while rolling less than five-mile per hour. As I approached the light and un-clipping my right shoe which is my typical foot I put down first at a stop. What I failed to notice was the slope in the road leaning my center of gravity to the left. Not realizing this until too late, I panicked and tried to pull my shoe out vertically which doesn’t work. Down I went meeting Mr. Asphalt. No sustained injuries occurred other than shredded pride as I looked like a total goof. For those cars near by inexperienced in clipless pedals wondering why would a rider keep his foot on the pedal?! Thankfully the cars were a safe distance from me. I had a heck of a time getting vertical again as my shoe was still engaged in the pedal and I was tangled with the bike.

This is a typical scenario you should be prepared for when starting out with a clipless pedal. The need to disengage immediately should be practiced in a driveway or a safe area. Become comfortable with removing both feet out of your pedals quickly and minimize the chance of an accident. Don’t be surprised when a riding situation requires a quick response and a panic sets in trying to pull your foot up instead of the required heel pivot.

Choose The Crossbow Case

Crossbows, with its growing popularity among outdoors hobbyists, are not cheap. Although one can buy a crossbow for less than a few hundred bucks, accessories such as arrows, broadheads and cocking devices do add up. A broken crossbow will render these accessories useless, so taking care of the crossbow is very important.

A great way to protect your crossbow is to invest in a good case. Crossbow cases should be part of the shopping list for anyone from starters to the more experienced hunter. Hunting usually requires one to travel to remote, rugged locations, so you need something to protect your crossbow bumps and falls.

Soft cases versus hard cases

Crossbow cases come in different varieties but most prefer soft cases. They’re versatile and most are considered universal, not made for a specific crossbow or brand. Soft cases are stretchable enough to accommodate other accessories and most even have multiple pockets to carry broadheads and cocking devices. And they are usually padded and made from light-weight materials. The padding helps to protect your bow from damage but since they are flexible, it cannot prevent your bow from bending or breaking. Thus, soft cases are best for archers who use their bows often, because they are quite light, and you can hand-carry your bow anywhere with you.

Hard cases, on the other hand, can offer maximum protection for your beloved bow. Like soft cases, the insides are also padded with foam or felt-like materials, so scratching is also virtually impossible. However, hard cases have hard outer shells which give you more protection. These cases won’t easily bend, and dropping the crossbow will not be a problem since the case will absorb the impact. Storing your bow in a hard case will make sure that your crossbow is safe from virtually anything. So, it is perfect for storing or long distance travelling.

How to Choose the Perfect Crossbow Case

Choosing the right case is pretty easy. In fact, the only technical consideration, if it ever does become an issue, is the make and brand of your bow. Everything else is your personal preference. Also, there are many types of materials to choose from. If you want to get a soft case, make sure you get something made of plastic as they are weather proof and won’t easily tear if it gets caught on a tree or any sharp object. In getting a hard case, an aluminum shell is best since it is the lightest. Also, make sure to get a case with thicker padding. Ensuring the best fit for your crossbow will prevent it from moving inside the case because the impact between your crossbow and the case itself can also damage it.

Importance of Body Shots

There are three very important reasons to use body shots. The first is taking away your opponents’ legs, or slow him down. Your opponent will be covering his face, body shots will surprise them and get them off balance, and this takes away their legs. Once you have taken away their legs, you have them in a position to knock them out or at least gain points with the judges.

The next reason to use this type of punch is so your opponent brings his hands down to block his body thereby leaving the head wide open for a knockout. After a proper body shot your opponent will lower their hands, with the perfect head shot you can score a knock out. You would be using this to set up the knockout punch, the ultimate in boxing. You can use hooks or uppercuts all in combination with each other. When the uppercut lands in just the perfect spot, the solarplexis, this will knock the wind right out of your opponent leaving them wide open for the knockout to the head.

The last reason is just absolute punishment that the body takes which then breaks the will of your opponent. How does this break down your opponent? They are confused; they don’t know whether to cover their head or their body, they are worn out from the constant defense. Punches to the body thrown at close range are much safer than the long distance body shots. Long distance shots leaves you wide open to be counter punched. You can use body shots at close range. When you are in the pocket, your punches need to be short and precise with a lot of power behind them. The key to this is bending your knees while coming forward. By doing this you are dominating your opponent, again scoring points with the judges. Not all fights end with a knockout, but you will definitely gain confidence with the judge’s decisions. Overall, you just have to be relentless as an amateur and a professional fighter.